Archive for the 'Chile' Category

La Estrella writes about me in their column “La Gringa del día”

gringa2gringa3

You can access the original article here: http://www.estrellavalpo.cl today (March 25th) by scrolling down the page– or any other day for an indeterminate amount of time by doing a search for “Hannah Kelley”.

I was interviewed on Saturday while sitting at a cafe near my house.

At the top it says:

The Gringa of the day

>North american Hanna (sp) Kelley thinks that the nice part of Valparaíso is that each neighborhood is distinct and has its own identity.

HANNAH KELLEY “The hills left me stunned

Aside from studying and getting to know Chile, she is working as a volunteer

by Lisa Karlsson

_________________________________

Hannah Kelley (21) arrived in Chile three weeks ago from the U.S. It is her first time in our country and in Valparaíso, but she already has a variety of opinions about this port city.

‘Each community has its own identity even though they are separated by just a few kilometers. I love that.”, says the north american, who was playing chess when we found her at a café on cerro Concepcion (cerro = hill).

She didn’t have a clear image of Valparaíso before she arrived, but she says that it was more or less what she had in mind, except that the streets of the hills are much longer and the stairs more tiring. “The characteristics of the hills left me stunned, they are quite impressive”, she signals.

During this year that she stays in Chile she is going to study history and pre-hispanic art, among other courses.

“But I didn’t just come to study. Aside from that, I am also going to work as a volunteer with Rotaract, an organization similar to Rotary International.”, she explains.

She tells us that a few weeks ago she went to a place in Olmué to work with some children alongside the Rotaract club. “It was a different experience, it will be very fun to continue working with them.” recounts this gringa.

The Hills of Valparaíso and an Easter Passion Play

Hills

The Saturday of Easter Weekend I went wandering around the hills Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion near my apartment with fellow scholar Paul Goldberg. We first went to a very unique cemetery, which is actually visible from the rear windows of my apartment.

See more pictures of the cemetery here.

cemetery1

Although I live at the bottom of a hill, in fact I am inundated with hills at every turn, I don’t often have the chance to explore them. Cerro Alegre is known for being one of the more touristy hills, while Concepcion is slightly more residential. Despite what either is known for, the interior of these hills is full of life and surprises.

After exploring the cemetery we climbed a little higher into an area with a puppet theatre, and a small park. In the park a family was playing soccer, and there were other people sitting on benches enjoying the nice day. It was like walking into an alternate universe. In front of my house there is the hustle and noise of buses and taxis, yet a five minute walk yielded a quiet beautiful spot to spend with the family on a Saturday.

After we toured around the hills more, spending probably 20 minutes in our descent, I was surprised to find that we ended in the same spot we had began. The hills above me are within such proximity, but constitute a totally different life.

See some of the sights I saw during my wanderings here.

hills

Houses on Cerro Concepcion

Pastoral

The same night I went to a Pastoral, or what might be known as a “Passion Play” in the U.S. on Cerro Placeres. It was all outdoors, and consisted of around 70 community members reenacting the Easter Story. There were large booming speakers at every block corner, with the deep masculine narrator’s voice reading passages from the Book of John. When the narrator wasn’t speaking, they would play AMC- Charlton Heston-Ten Commandments-style movie scores.

The play spanned about 10 or so blocks in total, and lasted about two hours. It is currently in its 56th year of production. Five thousand plus people showed up for the event.

I took a lot of footage of the event which I will *eventually* get around to editing and posting on my vimeo page. Until that time, look at the handful of pictures that I took of the event here.

pastoral1

Karina Silva Zamora vigil at PUCV

While walking around Casa Central (main campus for PUCV) on Monday, I noticed that some fellow students were using white paint to write on enormous strips of black plastic, then hanging them as banners all along the inside of the courtyard.

karina1

Posters inside of Casa Central

I stopped to ask one of the students what they were doing. The posters all began with the word justicia, justice, in big capital letters.

The girl I asked told me that they were putting up posters for a vigil that would be held that evening for her friend and classmate, Karina, who was murdered. I later realized that Monday was the one month anniversary of her death. The purpose of the posters, and the vigil, is to raise awareness that the police have not yet investigated her case, and in a certain way to put pressure on them.

I edited a video out of the footage I took from the vigil, and from talking to the student.


Karina Silva Zamora - Justicia from hannah kelley on Vimeo.

House phone number, Beach in Reñaca, Old Prison in Valparaíso

Announcing my home phone number: (011) (56) (32) 221-9305

Saturday was Beach Day. I didn’t bring my digital camera, but I took a lot of pictures with a small plastic 35 mm camera I brought. I am anxious to see what effect the camera gives to the pictures. I went with Matthieu by bus to Reñaca, which is about a 30 minute ride away from Valparaíso. Despite the beautiful waves and invitingly warm sun, the water here is freezing! Matthieu went surfing, but I just sunbathed and hung out on the beach.
Afterward we ate some delicious empanadas and pastel de choclo from a nearby store/restaurant. Empanadas are pastry turnovers filled with a variety of different ingredients; they are either baked or fried. We had the baked kind, mine was filled with what I believe were mussels, and Matthieu’s was filled with ground meat, olive and egg. Pastel de choclo is more or less a corn and meat casserole. The bottom is filled with ground meat or chicken, egg and olive, but the top is a semi sweet layer of baked yellow corn. Yum! It is a very typical Chilean dish.

My friend from the U.S., Loreto, came back to Chile after almost 6 years this past Wednesday. Last night I spent time with her and her sister Isabel, along with Isabel’s friend Cata (short for Catalina). We went to the ex-carcel, an old prison turned art and cultural center.

They were having something called a puertazo, in response to recent legislation which favors industrial fishers and ignores the needs of local fisherman, or pescadores artesanales. One of the people we met there happened to be an ex political inmate in the prison. He along with 15 other inmates escaped by tunneling underground to refuge.

Apparently a film was made about the prison, called El 25 de Mayo a las 9 en punto, which I am told can be purchased at the apartment next to the Municipalidad (Town Hall) of Valparaiso, on the second floor, where there is a sign hanging that says: Evangelical Church of St. Juan.

Pedro stars as one of the prison guards.

More pictures of the ex-carcel can be found here.

puertazo performance 1

One of the performances

carcel2

Me with Pedro Donoso Acevedo, tunneler and escapee of the Valparaiso Prison

Trains, Boats, Buses, ID’s, Empanadas and the like

I have taken most of my classes by now. I added another class, “Formulation of Latin American Culture” which meets on Thursday nights. The professor is an endearing older gentleman with curly hair and a penchant for “sh” sounds.
He described South America and Latin America as a grand painting of Indigenous peoples, Africans, Europeans and Mestizos.
The Americas

Board drawing from my new class on Latin American culture

I also made a new friend, Sole. She sheepishly told me that I was one of the only foreigners she had ever met. Sole must be at least 19–how different from the United States, where every city boasts its own ethnic group, replete with corresponding nightclubs, fine dining, and religious centers.

Since this new class and two of my other classes are in Viña (del Mar), I have been taking the train. There is a stop called Bellavista which is 3 blocks from my apartment, and it goes directly to Miramar station, which is about 3 blocks from the history department.

tren1tren2tren3

Train/Metro

I recently received a paper from the university called a comprobante, which entitles me to a reduced bus fare. This wonderful little piece of paper is substituting for my pase escolar, or university ID which won’t be given to me until May or so.
Since it is just a piece of paper, I had to go to one of the ubiquitous photocopy stores to get it laminated.
What a situation! I was telling a good Belgian friend here, Matthieu, that the entire concept of having to go get a piece of paper laminated to serve in lieu of a university ID is totally foreign. At Wayne State, not only are ID’s served up instantaneously, I would never worry about using it for a reduced gasoline price.

On the topic of documents and identification, I also went to the Registro Civil with another scholar, Paul Goldberg, on Thursday morning to apply for my carnét. The Registro Civil serves the public much in the same way the Secretary of State does in the United States. I was warned several times that it fills up early and always has long lines (sound familiar?). I had to pay a fee equivalent to about $8. They took my picture, finger printed me, and gave me a piece of paper with the date of when I will be able to come and pick up the carnét. A carnét is the equivalent of a drivers license in the U.S., except that almost no one my age here drives, so it is more like a state ID. It is used to buy alcohol and tobacco, get into night clubs, and in case you are stopped by the carabineros (or in more colloquial terms, pacos).

Lancha!

On Friday I went with some friends on a small boat or lancha. It was about $20 for the six of us to go zipping around the port for half and hour. We were able to see all of the cargo ships, navy ships, as well as have a great view of all the cerros or hills of Valparaiso.

See more pictures from this here.

Boat trip with some friends

Also on Friday, everyone at school was walking around with bouquets of green branches for Palm Sunday, Domingo de Ramos.

domingo de ramos

Mechones

These poor guys are mechones, freshman.

As a welcome to their new life as university students, upperclassmen dress them in dirty clothes and paint them colors–only to make them go beg for money on the street. Once they have enough money, I think they have to do something else that is just as humiliating!

I gave each of them 50 pesos for the photo, about a dime each.

mechones

They asked me where I was from using Usted–the first time I think I have ever been addressed with Usted by a native speaker. I’m sure I’ll never use Ud. with anyone again, It made me feel so old! I immediately corrected them; “Ud. no, tratame de tú!”.

Grocery Shopping in Chile, International Students at the PUCV…

Friday I signed up for my classes, which are as follows:

Advanced Spanish Grammar, 4 credits

Advanced Written Spanish, 3 credits

History of Modern Chile, 4 credits

Art and Society in Pre-Hispanic Chile, 3 credits

Environmental Law, 2 credits

These courses were the result of hours of drilling the “monitores”, students in charge of international students, on which classes would be the best for me. I am pleased with my selections and think they will help me not only to elevate my Spanish into an academic realm, but also improve my understanding of this rich country. Classes start Monday at 3:40.

After signing up for classes the PIIE, or Programa Internacional de Intercamio (International Students Office) organized some activities for the foreign students. We saw various types of Chilean dances while we enjoyed empanadas and juice. I hope to upload the videos from this event shortly.

After the event I went grocery shopping and notebook/school supplies shopping with a friend from my group, Matthieu, and my monitor Maria José. They have an escalator in the supermarket here that is magnetized to stick to the cart wheels so that you can bring your cart upstairs with you. I bought bread, cheese, yoghurt and some other breakfast essentials.

Maria José was great–I don’t know how I would have bought school supplies without her. For some reason in the university, students no longer write on notebooks with lines–only on graph paper. This was strange not only for me but also for Matthieu, who is Belgian. I kept trying to find ‘normal’ lined notebooks for my classes in different colors (a color for each class, of course!). It ended up that I bought lined notebooks intended for high school students. We’ll see if anyone laughs at me for not using graph paper. :)

In the evening all of the monitors threw a party for the international students in Viña. There was a lot Reggaeton, Salsa and maraca-drumbeat-latin music. I enjoyed myself.

Apartment, Rotary

Thursday I had the chance to attend a meeting with my host club, the Rotary Club of Valparaiso. I along with another scholar, Susan Owen, sat with some wonderful gentlemen and a few of the Rotaracters from the Rotaract Club of Valparaiso. On the agenda was a Bingo fund raiser that the club is planning in the nearby Casino del Mar (Viña), a Rotaract event with Hogar Los Sauces and celebration of World Rotaract Week, as well as songs, lunch and the type of conviviality I’ve come to expect from Rotary. The club meets in the Club Aleman or “German Club”, and reminds me a lot of the Rotary Club of Detroit that meets at the Detroit Athletic Club. It is located near Plaza Anibal Pinto, which brings me to my next topic–my apartment!

Rotary Club Valpo1

To see more pictures from the Rotary meeting, click here.

To see a video of Valparaisan Rotarians singing to their guests, click here.

I am living in front of Plaza Anibal Pinto in downtown Valparaíso. I live with a girl from Brazil named Priscila, a Swede named Gustav and a German, Christoff. I had actually talked with the renter when I was still in Michigan and assumed he had already found someone for the room. I went with a new Mexican friend Leonardo on Wednesday to look at the room, and moved in on Thursday evening. I was greeted very warmly by all of my new roommates and feel very much at home.

departamento

Kitchen and entrance of my apartment.

The same evening I went with my landlord, a young architect by the name of Daniel, and a group of other students (some from my university) to a place around the corner called “El Boliche”. There was a wonderful duo of Argentine girls singing old Tango songs. I seem to meet so many Swedes here. When we arrived at the venue almost everyone sitting at our table was Swedish, although there were a few Norwegians. I ordered something called a Churrasco Italiano–basically a sandwhich with tomate (tomato), vacuno (beef) and palta (avocado).

I left around 12:30, yet everyone was asking me why I was leaving early–can you imagine! They stay up so late here. Maybe I will get used to this…




Close
Powered by ShareThis