Archive for the 'Chile' Category



Santiago trip with California Rotary GSE team

At the end of May I went to Santiago with two other Rotary Ambassadorial Scholars to visit a Rotary Group Study Exchange (GSE) team. True to my informative spirit, I will provide some useful information about GSE teams taken from rotary.org:

What is Group Study Exchange (GSE)?
The Group Study Exchange program is a unique cultural and vocational exchange opportunity for business and professional men and women in the initial years of their careers. The program is designed to develop professional and leadership skills among young people to better prepare them to address the needs of their communities and an increasingly global workplace.

What constitutes a GSE team?

  • 1 Rotarian team leader who is not the current DG, immediate PDG, or the DGE and
  • 4 non-Rotarian team members who are:
    • Between the ages of 25-40
    • Currently employed, with 2 years of experience in their chosen profession
    • Not lineal descendants or spouses of Rotarians

Continuing…

We spent a day in Cerro San Cristobal, which is a municipal park organized around a hill. Around the hill there is a zoo, a wine museum, millions of places to picnic and a lot of joggers and bikers. On the top of the hill is a large statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada, a gift from France (I guess that the French just love making huge statues to give away). Given that this hill is home to the second highest point in the city, we had an amazing view of Santiago and the Andes despite it being a foggy day. We took a cable car half way up the hill and walked the rest of the way.

Left to Right: Maggie, Dora, Maurice, Susan, Marina, Me, Dana, Paul

At night we spent some time eating sushi inside Patio Bellavista in the Bellavista neighborhood right outside of the park.

The next day was Día del Patrimonio (National Heritage Day), which meant all of the museums and national historic sites were open free to the public. We went to the Museo de Bellas Artes and then spent some time nearby in the famous Plaza de Armas, where all other points in Chile are measured from. The last thing we saw was the ‘presidential palace’ Palacio de La Moneda, which is in fact not where the president lives. She lives in another district near the military headquarters.

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1., 2.) Inside of the Museo de Bellas Artes 3.) Plaza de Armas 4.) Flower and sand art celebrating National Heritage Day 5.) The Santiago Stock Exchange 6.) Me in front of the presidential palace La Moneda

For more pictures click here.

Condell Street

–The official wake-Hannah-up-on-days-she-gets-to-sleep-in-street.

Perhaps it is in retaliation to the student protests, maybe they felt left out of the limelight, but whatever the motive a slew of military people went blasting down the street this morning, starting at 8:30 (today is Sunday…). Nothing was left out: horns, loud drum lines, people stomping around, peanuts, stray dogs barking at the parade.

I thought after the first 15 minute round I would be able to get some rest again. Not so. These wonderful marchers had about 4 more rounds in them, at least. I think we are at N˚4 right now.  I can only guess that they are celebrating the national holiday this upcoming Wednesday. I forget at the moment which one it is. I’m still rather groggy!

waker-uppers

waker-uppers

(in the background, imagine round 5 sounding away)

20th Anniversary of the Rotary Club of Valparaíso Bellavista

Today I had the pleasure of attending a reunion celebrating the 20th anniversary of the Rotary Club of Valparaíso, Bellavista, which is Paul Goldberg‘s host club.

The event took place on a small parcela (ranch house), in the outskirts of Quilpué. On the menú was a feast of seafood stew called curanto. I filmed the whole process! It consisted of 5 or 6 delicacies tied inside of plastic nets, layered in an enormous pot with onions, garlic, lettuce leaves, white wine and potatoes. The potatoes go on top, and once they are soft, the stew is done.

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1.) Smoked pork ribs, chorizo, chicken, clams and mussels put into plastic nets 2.) Stuffing the nets 3.) Layered pot with knotted nets and garlic, onion, white wine, lettuce leaves and potatoes 4.) Rotarian John enjoying curanto 5.) Closeup of the final product

The parcela turned out to be the beekeeping workshop of Sergio, one of the Rotary members.

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5. 20th_Anniv_Rotary_Bellavista - 53 6. 20th_Anniv_Rotary_Bellavista - 82

1, 2, 3.) Bee boxes behind the ranch house 4.) Old honeycombs after being centrifuged 5.) Me talking to Marruja, one of my favorite Damas Rotarias! 6.) Happy 20th anniversary, Bellavista

¡See even more pictures!

Student Protests on Calle Condell, Valparaíso

Thursday, May 8th

Students from various universities marched down Calle Condell, I suppose to Parque Italia or Parque O’Higgins*, dressed in black. There were also elementary school children and high school aged youth marching in the protest. They woke me out of bed, I went to the balcony of our apartment to watch hundreds of students chanting cheers and banging drums while they waved flags like “Business on Strike!”, “Nursing on Strike!” and …”Physical Therapy!”, “Psychology!”, until nearly all of the majors of whichever given university were represented. My roommate Gustav also awoke because of the noise and came to see the commotion. I soon realized that the black outfits represented the “death of education”. There was for awhile in the central building for PUCV a huge coffin with a Spanish equivalent of R.I.P. underneath the words Educación.

It wasn’t the first time that I have seen protesters block Condell, an important street and thoroughfare used to reach the even bigger and longer Calle Pedro Montt, Avenida Colon, and others.

Click on the below image to see more pictures of this and other events related to the recent student protests in Valparaíso.

May_8th_condellprotest - 07
Students wear black to mourn the “death of education”

*These parks are located along Calle Pedro Montt, a main avenue in Valparaíso, and are used for concerts, assemblies and social activities in addition to housing several well known street markets.

PUCV still in Paro

In light of all of the extreme events that have been happening here in Valparaíso, I thought I would make a partial time line for those of you on the outside. Start by reading my first post on the paro.

Four universities have been collaborating with one another to make the impact of the paro stronger than ever:

  • Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso (PUCV)
  • Universidad Técnica Federico Santa María (USM) (Casa Central and Sede J.M.C)
  • Universidad de Playa Ancha
  • Universidad de Valparaíso

Similar protests took place in September of 2007, resulting at one point in an overtake of the Intendencia Municipal (City Council building).

The police have been illegally entering into school buildings in Valparaiso; police aren’t allowed to enter a school building unless the director of the school calls and gives the precinct permission.

Wednesday April 16th –Students at the University Federico Santa Maria vote to start a paro.

Friday April 18th — Students are detained by carabineros (police officers) who entered illegally into the Isabel Brown Caces building of the PUCV and took them charge. (El Mercurio)

Thursday April 24th — Students (presumably from the PUCV) take over the metro for 10-15 minutes in the middle of the day. The students stormed past the turnstiles and raced onto the metro car at Francia Station, where they began to shout cheers in support of the education protests.

Monday April 28th — Students at the University Federico Santa Maria (USM) are tear gassed for education related protests. Students burn paper figures painted to look like Reinaldo Sanchez (Don Choco), board member of Transporte Metro Valparaíso, among others. Avenida España is blocked on several occasions by students and burning objects. The Gimpert and Ruben Castro buildings of the PUCV are taken over in a toma*.

Wednesday April 30th – The Geography Department at the PUCV is tear gassed while full of students.

Tuesday May 5th & 6th — more protests and tear gassing at PUCV and USM. The PUCV shut their main doors for the second time since the 30th of April. The police close down the USM on the 6th because of the extremity of the protests on the 5th, involving molotov cocktails, burning posters and other objects, rock and object throwing on behalf of the students and gas and water retaliation on the part of the police. Avenida España is blocked by the ruckus for nearly an hour.

See some pictures here.

*toma is literally a takeover. Students sleep in the faculty/dept. they are taking over, they lock the main exits and endure weeks without electricity and water. Friends and fellow students bring them food.

More information (Spanish):

http://www.cordonpucv.tk

http://unaprensadiferente.blogspot.com

http://www.fotolog.com/princesskariko/40930324

http://www.mercuriovalpo.cl (“Microbuseros subirán pasaje escolar en $20″, April 18th)

PUCV Valparaíso student strike

The students at my school are on strike right now, protesting bus prices which are set to be raised over 50%.

Buses are the main means of transportation in Valparaíso.

Some departments were on strike up until this past Friday, others are on strike indefinitely until the situation is resolved.

Students are not going to class, and incidentally I have been under the weather, so I was able to miss class without there actually being class to miss.

Update: The paro will continue into Thursday, when there will be a national student strike. 4/23

Update: The paro continues and will probably go until at least tomorrow, Monday April 28th. The Universidad Federico Santa Maria has declared they are on strike until May 4th. The Playa Ancha campus of the PUCV is in a toma–the students are sleeping at the school and the faculty no longer have access to the school. Bus fares are set to raise tomorrow. 4/27

paro

Poster protesting raise in prices

National Reserve Siete Tazas and Semana Novata

This past week was Semana Novata, a week which celebrates freshman. Classes are suspended, and each evening boasts an event hosted by the university’s federación estudiantil, or student body.

To take advantage of this week off school, I along with two other girls studying at PUCV on exchange went camping at the National Reserve Siete Tazas. Siete Tazas means literally “Seven Cups” and is so named for the seven waterfalls which spill into one another through natural volcanic basins formed years and years ago. We spent Saturday buying camp food and supplies, and left Sunday morning for our trip.

Gretchen
Gretchen (Alaska)

 

 

 

Emily

Emily (Montana)

Things went pretty much on schedule on the way to the reserve. We managed to get student prices for bus fares and micros (city buses), and had little delays in the way of waiting in between transfers.

Our path was as follows:

  1. Valparaíso to Santiago in Bus (9am)
  2. Santiago to Curicó in Bus
  3. Curicó to Molina in micro (2:30pm)

This is where we ran into a problem…
Because it is no longer considered high season, buses do not run more than once daily after a certain point in February. Of course we found this out, no thanks to Lonely Planet’s Guide to Chile.

We had to wait in Molina until 5:00 for a bus to Valdesina, which was still about 20 miles away from our destination. Molina, by the way, is a pretty small community; we were well aware as we sat in the town square with our fair skin and huge backpacks, that we were the main attraction.

Waiting in Molina consisted of exciting things like:

  • Making sandwiches on a bench in the park out of avocado, lukewarm cheese and salami
  • Going to the internet cafe
  • Buying new water bottles and using the restroom at the local grocery store
  • Getting bothered by some local teenagers on BMX bikes
  • Sweating because I was wearing a polar fleece jacket
  • Swatting flies at the bus station and avoiding contact with the flea-infected dog who kept running around our bench

Once we were finally on the bus to Valdesina, curious as to how we would find our way to the reserve from the destination of the bus, a fellow passenger told us about a bus that was leaving Valdesina for Radal (the embarkment point for the reserve) at 9pm that evening.

Valdesina was scarcely more than a wide spot in the road. We easily found the river (by turning right after we descended from the bus and walking 40 feet), and a place to set up camp. The question now was whether to set up camp before nightfall, or wait for the phantom bus which would whisk us away to Radal where we would set up camp and hike to the falls the next day.

We decided to wait.

We ate a hearty dinner of rice and mixed vegetables, and some type of packet soup. Gretchen and Emily both have ample camping gear, so we had two propane stoves to make food with.

After dinner we made a small fire in one of the many stone fire pits while we waited for the bus. At 9 a bus finally came, but it was the same bus that had taken us to Valdesina running the same route again.

The next day we got a local to take us to the park in his truck for 14,000 pesos (around $30). This was a huge rip off, but we had run out of options!

We found a camp spot once we arrived in Radal, and spent the rest of the day in the park.

The falls were beautiful. We saw two distinct sites, and had the fortune (due to the difficulty of arrival and the fact that it isn’t high season) of not having to share them with anyone.

For more pictures from this trip, click here.

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La Estrella writes about me in their column "La Gringa del día"

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You can access the original article here: http://www.estrellavalpo.cl today (March 25th) by scrolling down the page– or any other day for an indeterminate amount of time by doing a search for “Hannah Kelley”.

I was interviewed on Saturday while sitting at a cafe near my house.

At the top it says:

The Gringa of the day

>North american Hanna (sp) Kelley thinks that the nice part of Valparaíso is that each neighborhood is distinct and has its own identity.

HANNAH KELLEY “The hills left me stunned

Aside from studying and getting to know Chile, she is working as a volunteer

by Lisa Karlsson

_________________________________

Hannah Kelley (21) arrived in Chile three weeks ago from the U.S. It is her first time in our country and in Valparaíso, but she already has a variety of opinions about this port city.

‘Each community has its own identity even though they are separated by just a few kilometers. I love that.”, says the north american, who was playing chess when we found her at a café on cerro Concepcion (cerro = hill).

She didn’t have a clear image of Valparaíso before she arrived, but she says that it was more or less what she had in mind, except that the streets of the hills are much longer and the stairs more tiring. “The characteristics of the hills left me stunned, they are quite impressive”, she signals.

During this year that she stays in Chile she is going to study history and pre-hispanic art, among other courses.

“But I didn’t just come to study. Aside from that, I am also going to work as a volunteer with Rotaract, an organization similar to Rotary International.”, she explains.

She tells us that a few weeks ago she went to a place in Olmué to work with some children alongside the Rotaract club. “It was a different experience, it will be very fun to continue working with them.” recounts this gringa.

The Hills of Valparaíso and an Easter Passion Play

Hills

The Saturday of Easter Weekend I went wandering around the hills Cerro Alegre and Cerro Concepcion near my apartment with fellow scholar Paul Goldberg. We first went to a very unique cemetery, which is actually visible from the rear windows of my apartment.

See more pictures of the cemetery here.

cemetery1

Although I live at the bottom of a hill, in fact I am inundated with hills at every turn, I don’t often have the chance to explore them. Cerro Alegre is known for being one of the more touristy hills, while Concepcion is slightly more residential. Despite what either is known for, the interior of these hills is full of life and surprises.

After exploring the cemetery we climbed a little higher into an area with a puppet theatre, and a small park. In the park a family was playing soccer, and there were other people sitting on benches enjoying the nice day. It was like walking into an alternate universe. In front of my house there is the hustle and noise of buses and taxis, yet a five minute walk yielded a quiet beautiful spot to spend with the family on a Saturday.

After we toured around the hills more, spending probably 20 minutes in our descent, I was surprised to find that we ended in the same spot we had began. The hills above me are within such proximity, but constitute a totally different life.

See some of the sights I saw during my wanderings here.

hills

Houses on Cerro Concepcion

Pastoral

The same night I went to a Pastoral, or what might be known as a “Passion Play” in the U.S. on Cerro Placeres. It was all outdoors, and consisted of around 70 community members reenacting the Easter Story. There were large booming speakers at every block corner, with the deep masculine narrator’s voice reading passages from the Book of John. When the narrator wasn’t speaking, they would play AMC- Charlton Heston-Ten Commandments-style movie scores.

The play spanned about 10 or so blocks in total, and lasted about two hours. It is currently in its 56th year of production. Five thousand plus people showed up for the event.

I took a lot of footage of the event which I will *eventually* get around to editing and posting on my vimeo page. Until that time, look at the handful of pictures that I took of the event here.

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Karina Silva Zamora vigil at PUCV

While walking around Casa Central (main campus for PUCV) on Monday, I noticed that some fellow students were using white paint to write on enormous strips of black plastic, then hanging them as banners all along the inside of the courtyard.

karina1

Posters inside of Casa Central

I stopped to ask one of the students what they were doing. The posters all began with the word justicia, justice, in big capital letters.

The girl I asked told me that they were putting up posters for a vigil that would be held that evening for her friend and classmate, Karina, who was murdered. I later realized that Monday was the one month anniversary of her death. The purpose of the posters, and the vigil, is to raise awareness that the police have not yet investigated her case, and in a certain way to put pressure on them.

I edited a video out of the footage I took from the vigil, and from talking to the student.

Karina Silva Zamora – Justicia from hannah kelley on Vimeo.

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